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New Holland 348 Manual Parts
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SAFETY OPERATION. Attaching Engine Baler to Tractor. Attaching P.T.O.
SAFETY OPERATION. Attaching Engine Baler to Tractor. Attaching P.T.O.
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Started raking hay today. My daughter at the helm of the MF50 diesel pulling our 3pt John Deere model 350 rake. She did a fine job - raked two 7ft swaths together all around.
Then things turned ugly. Got the new to me John Deere 348 - which we thought we had all the bugs worked out - not!
Hooked it to one of our hay wagons, pulling with the JD5055d and off we went. Not so fast!!!!! While it ties a great knot, we struggled with the trip arm not falling all the way down to the stop and as a result, it had a short travel to trip the knotters again and tie a nice 12 inch long bale.
Other times the knotter wouldn't trip at all and we'd have a 6 ft bale coming out the back - waiting on the knotter to trip - even though the trip arm had fallen. So after much attempted and hurried troubleshooting and watching the time fly by, we brought out the trusty New Holland 68. Greased it up, put it behind the MF50 diesel, hooked a wagon to the baler and commenced to make hay. Once everyone got their sea legs with the New Holland/MF combo, my daughter took the helm of the MF, the boys stacking and I went to the field side to calmly/unrushed trouble shoot this John Deere 348 baler. Trip dog not falling - that turned out to be a matter of shims and their location with respect to the knurled wheel. Got that ironed out and that's when the trip dog problem became more evident - though intermittent.
What's going on with the trip dog is it intermittently sticks. The trip arm trips to tell the knotter - hey, deliver some twine and tie a knot. When it does trip, the trip dog sometimes doesn't actuate, so the knotter never goes through a cycle. From a safe distance, a slight tap with the end of a wrench and and it clicks into position and a knotter cycle is initiated and completed. This is a newer model baler and I don't think it ever saw a shed until I bought it.
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I'm wondering if there is some rust I'm dealing with on the trip dog shaft. Spring seems to be working, but something is causing the trip dog to stick - sometimes. New Holland did great! Zero banana bales, though it missed a few knots early going.
MF pulled it and the wagon great. When the 348 worked, it was great! No more capacity from it for an equal windrow than the 68.
Reason we bought the JD was two fold: First was a newer, more reliable baler (that ain't working out at the moment) and second, more flakes to a bale. JD is 93 SPM and the 68 is 63-65 SPM. So today, we set the ground speed for the MF50 and JD5055d tractors to a very close mph. The JD 5055d, even though it was pulling a wagon had zero trouble with the 348. While the potential output can easily overwhelm the stacker on a wagon (which I kind of feared), it appears to be manageable and knock on wood, the hp we have to work with (50 PTO max) doesn't seem to be an issue. In the pics, you'll notice the horizontal piece of steel that abuts the trip dog, the top mating corners should be flush.
New Holland 348 Manuals
I messed that up when tinkering trying to square up the star wheel. I'll fix that tomorrow. Videos in a few days.
Any tips on the root cause and fix for this sticky trip dog? Thanks, Bill. I appreciate everyone's help on the 348. Set the mating horizontal piece that moves with the trip arm and is to be flush in the top mating corners (see my original post) and cleaned out the excessive grease from the area. A few times the trip dog would stick ever so slightly, but had a good day out with the baler yesterday.
I'm probably a little different in my rational for decision making, but one if the things I am very mindful of is dealer support or lack of it. I'm trying to give back in replies to other folks posts, but consider forums such as this as a repository of knowledge. The 348, while a newer model IMHO is essentially the same/similar design baler back to the 336 and probably the 14t - so there's a good chance a large pool of knowledge is out there regarding every aspect of these JD (and NH) balers. Thanks again, Bill. The JD348 is a high capacity baler. 93 strokes per minute vs 80 for the 338 and 328 models. For reference, my New Holland 68 is a 63-65 strokes per minute baler.
We don't have the HP to mash this 348 to capacity, especially with higher moisture hay, however, we were after a newer, more reliable baler to go with our 68. The way around the 348 from a hp standpoint is a combo of things, smaller windrows, slower ground speed so as not to choke the baler. 93 strokes per minute gives us more flakes per bale than the 68, which we want.
It also gives us more consistent length. Another nice thing about the 348 and it's higher plunger speed, is you can mimic a lower capacity baler when encountering lighter windrows. When cleaning up our field, there were some thin windrows we re-raked. We kept our ground speed, but lowered the rpms. Pickup and throat of the baler filled up with hay and the packer forks delivered a full charge to the plunger - this kept us making bricks, when 93 SPM would get us a ill shaped bale.
So I think we are getting along fine with our PTO hp (50), don't think I'd want to try it with a New Holland BC5070 or 575 - that would probably be overwhelming for our tractor. The grease - I can't explain. When in the hunt for another baler, I found a really nice New Holland BC5060 on a dealers lot. The gear driven knotters were just like the JD the I've got - packed with grease. Interestingly enough, that baler had knotter trouble too. So much trouble that the owner that bought it panicked and immediately traded it on another model New Holland. Baler couldn't have been 4 months old.
Dealer steered me away from it and also said - no warranty. I think I'll get this JD squared away and we'll have a fine/reliable machine going forward.
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We took some videos of making hay, some of which I'll post to youtube when time allows. However, walking beside the baler watching the knotters, opposite the pick-up, which I did most of the time we were baling - it's hard to get an appreciation of the capacity of this 348.
Some of the videos were at such an angle where you could see hay going into the pick-up. On one particular video, between the hay being especially thick in that area and probably more than two - seven foot windrows raked together (was at the edge of the field), the shear volume of hay going into the baler was enormous. The JD didn't flinch, took the continuous wad/huge windrow of hay and processed it promptly - IMPRESSIVE. Didn't really notice or appreciate until after the fact and watching the video. I think another benefit of this 348 will be - I can put most anyone in the tractor seat and all they need to do is drive. We are going at a moderate pace anyway, so if a large wad of hay is encountered, the driver doesn't have to be necessarily be good at feathering the clutch, as we would do on the New Holland 68 - to prevent shearing a flywheel pin or stalling the pick-up, but just plow right through it, as we are no where near the capacity of the baler anyway.
Jim - you may be right. I'm going to readjust so that the mating top corners against the trip dog and item #12 of your previous post are flush per the manual. When I loosened the 4 bolts that hold the star wheel to the top of the bale case, that's when that adjustment got fouled-up.
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I was thinking there wasn't enough clearance between the knurled wheel and the serrated trip arm that rides on it. However, when the knotter is tripped, the face of item #12 from your previous post is well clear of the trip dog. Maybe being out of adjustment, it's pushing the dog far enough back to fix it's position in initiation of the knotter cycle. With regard to the trip arm falling, reading the service manual when the cam, item #3 from your previous post, is rotated such that it pushes the trip arm to it's maximum distance from the knurled wheel - there should be around 1/16 inch of clearance for the trip arm to free fall. There is no adjustment for this 1/16ish distance. It's either there or the cam is worn and needs replaced. At the time, not knowing that - I had thought there was not enough clearance via the star wheel's physical location in the slots - so I moved the star wheel to compensate.
Turns out the side plates on the knurled wheel assy were shimmed improperly and between that and the star wheel being out of square, the trip arm was binding on the way down. Dang funny thing how hay on the ground can teach a man much in a short time about knotters! Thanks for the help.
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